Sewing Awl Exploration

Intention:

I am intrigued by combining heavy fabrics and materials in an industrial setting. Canvas, leather, and even kevlar are materials I would like to work with in the future. For my final project, I am hoping to become proficient in using a sewing awl to combine these materials. In an industrial setting, this is one of the most useful soft fabrication techniques.

Process

I have been reading lots about industrial and work-oriented stitching. There are youtube videos of people (with heavily bandaged hands) working through thick materials with sewing awls. The stitching pattern seems to be a basic running, lock-stitch and I was excited to try. I've read a number of blogs and articles and it seems that working with an awl – especially with leather – takes a heavy toll on your hands. I wanted an awl that would avoid this. I went to a Pat Catan's craft store and spoke to staff about their experience using awls.

I found that there are a few different sizes, thicknesses and shapes to the needles you can use. It seems that people have different preferences for needles they use. I wanted to simply try them out as soon as I could.

Reflection

Once I realized what I wanted, I selected an awl with a sturdy, wooden handle and a built in bobbin. It came with one straight needle and one curved one. I selected a strap of leather in the hopes of making a dog collar. The stitch was easy enough with the straight needle, but the curved one was far more useful for getting the right tension when pulling the needle out of the leather.

I made two rows of running stitches, one with each needle. I tried to time myself for each to understand efficiency, but as I became more proficient, the difference in efficiency was impossible to measure. I really like the sewing technique of using an awl and will definitely use it for projects in the future.

For continuing the project and on all future project, it makes more sense to combine multiple techniques. For example, as sharp and sturdy as the awl needles are, I will laser cut my seam holes so I merely have to insert the needle to make my lock stitch. This ensures straight rows and less damage to equipment and hands. 

Sample Book:

Below are some of the pieces made during the course, including the sewing awl project.

An embedded soft circuited. The electricity is channeled through the crocheted steel wool on the right, held down with conductive thread, and activates the circuit by pressing down on the conductive fabric. 

Sewing machine samples showing various stitch types, hemming, and turning. 

Needle Felted watch with embedded soft circuitry to light up LED in watch "face".

Laser cut and bonded Pony Patch. 

Laser cut with adhesive backing.

Finished patch with felted mane and ironed onto fabric. 

Sewing awl with running lock stitch in leather.